An Illustrated Japan / Okinawa / Life & Daily
Daiichi Makishi Public Market, called the kitchen of Okinawa, is a living museum born from black market survival after war, satisfying both citizen kitchen needs and tourist curiosity. Origin is black markets that emerged 1945 around Kainan and Matsuo when 103 potters pioneered entry to Naha as some of the first civilians allowed into devastated Naha, vending US ration goods and smuggled items from Taiwan and Hong Kong. Naha City systematized it in 1948 along Garb River, starting meat and fish sales in 1950 in scrap built sheds. Garb River flooded waist deep after rain, chronicled by aunties working since 1960. From 1962 culvert construction finished 1965, second market 1969, concrete first market rebuilt 1972 upon reversion, earning prefix daiichi. Since then stalls selling colorful reef fish budai, abasa balloonfish, local pork parts like chiraga face skin and nakami entrails, tebiichi feet, kelp, and bright fresh produce became tourist magnet. Building aged, operations moved to temporary facility 2019, reopened March 19 2023 as airy three floor with nine entrances. First floor about 50 shops, second floor dining. The famous mochiage system lets you buy fish downstairs and have it cooked upstairs for 500 to 800 yen cooking fee, making live ise ebi spiny lobster become sashimi and miso soup. Closed fourth Sunday, old Bon July 16-17 and New Year Jan 1-3. Open 9 to 20. Morning buying scenery buzzing, price tags written in dialect are fun even just viewing. Restrooms clean, elevator accessible. Cooking time 15 minutes. Nearby streets link to Ichiba Hon-dori arcade. Market association joint cleaning daily 20:30 after close, fish gutters bleach hot water smell strong morning bleach odor marks start. Fish auction informal first come shouting, no paper auction clock. Butcher pork displays tongue dew labeled uta. Language bilingual signage English Korean Chinese for tourist but local haggling still in Uchinaguchi dialect. Restroom perfume mixed seafood strong incense overpowers. Market second floor eateries license limited alcohol but provide Orion. Rooftop rarely open special events star view. Parking building adjacent 200 yen 30 min congested midday. Shopping bags thin recycled paper need double. Afternoon discount after 18:00 fish half price but quality still fresh enough soup. Market association joint cleaning daily 20:30 after close, fish gutters bleach hot water smell strong morning bleach odor marks start. Fish auction informal first come shouting, no paper auction clock. Butcher pork displays tongue dew labeled uta. Language bilingual signage English Korean Chinese for tourist but local haggling still in Uchinaguchi dialect. Restroom perfume mixed seafood strong incense overpowers. Market second floor eateries license limited alcohol but provide Orion. Rooftop rarely open special events star view. Parking building adjacent 200 yen 30 min congested midday. Shopping bags thin recycled paper need double. Afternoon discount after 18:00 fish half price but quality still fresh enough soup.