Handa Somen
Also written: 半田そうめん · 半田素面
Handa Somen are thicker and chewier than regular somen, and are an indispensable everyday summer noodle dish in Tokushima.
An Illustrated Japan / Tokushima / Life & Daily
About this place
Handa Somen from the Handa district of Tsurugi Town in western Tokushima Prefecture, is a thick hand-stretched somen noodle with history exceeding 300 years, defined by its noticeably thicker and chewier bite compared to ordinary somen that is usually fine and delicate. Using clear Yoshino River tributary water and sharp diurnal temperature swings between mountain nights and days, artisans still practice traditional cold-season production from November to March: dough is foot-kneaded for gluten development, twisted like rope, coated with vegetable oil to prevent sticking, and twice stretched over tall bamboo rods before air drying in cold wind, a technique called nido-nobashi. A bundle of about 120 grams cooks into translucent white noodles that retain smooth throat feel while offering udon-like substance capable of serving as main dish rather than side. Locally it is enjoyed kamaage style, drained and dipped directly into concentrated dashi soy sauce with sudachi citrus slice, grated ginger, myoga ginger bud, and oba shiso leaf, or served noodle-soup style in a broth made with simmered mackerel called saba-somen which is standard for celebratory feasts. As everyday summer noodle in Tokushima, it contrasts with fine white somen by being filling enough for single dish. Recently chefs in Takamatsu and Tokushima City pair Handa Somen with Awaodori chicken or sudachi zest for creative Italian-style peperoncino plates, and factories offer stretching demonstrations for tourists documenting intangible food craftsmanship and photographing curtain of white noodles. Handa Somen production repeats oil coating process multiple times extending maturation, keeping thickness while developing chewiness. At Tsurugi Town workshops, technique of sleeping noodles in wooden boxes overnight is transmitted orally through families, and white curtain of drying noodles in cold wind is winter spectacle. As lucky charm, Handa Somen is prized for wedding return gifts, and soshime gift of tai somen shaped as sea bream symbolizes longevity unique to Awa region. Recently chilled capellini style cold Italian arrangements with sudachi and olive oil or arrabbiata with tomato sauce are offered in restaurants. Factories provide photo spots for curtain noodles. Handa Somen production repeats oil coating process multiple times extending maturation, keeping thickness while developing chewiness. At Tsurugi Town workshops, technique of sleeping noodles in wooden boxes overnight is transmitted orally through families, and white curtain of drying noodles in cold wind is winter spectacle. As lucky charm, Handa Somen is prized for wedding return gifts, and soshime gift of tai somen shaped as sea bream symbolizes longevity unique to Awa region. Recently chilled capellini style cold Italian arrangements with sudachi and olive oil or arrabbiata with tomato sauce are offered in restaurants. Factories provide photo spots for curtain noodles. Handa Somen production repeats oil coating process multiple times extending maturation, keeping thickness while developing chewiness. At Tsurugi Town workshops, technique of sleeping noodles in wooden boxes overnight is transmitted orally through families, and white curtain of drying noodles in cold wind is winter spectacle. As lucky charm, Handa Somen is prized for wedding return gifts, and soshime gift of tai somen shaped as sea bream symbolizes longevity unique to Awa region. Recently chilled capellini style cold Italian arrangements with sudachi and olive oil or arrabbiata with tomato sauce are offered in restaurants. Factories provide photo spots for curtain noodles.
