An Illustrated Japan / Hokkaido / Famous Views
Five nameless ponds numbered Ichi-go to Go-ko sit at about 70 m elevation below the 1,661 m Mt. Rausu range. They were formed about 3,700 years ago when Mt. Iozan (Sulphur Mountain) collapsed in an eruption, depositing rock debris that acts like a sponge – snowmelt and rain filter underground and well up into the depressions, with no river inflow, so on windless days the Shiretoko Mountains mirror perfectly. The entire Shiretoko Peninsula was inscribed as World Natural Heritage in July 2005 largely because 400-500 brown bears live in an area only slightly larger than Lake Biwa – one of the highest densities in the world – together with sea eagles and primeval forest. To protect both visitors and bears, the 800 m elevated boardwalk from the parking to Lake Ichi is fenced with electric wire and free year-round, letting anyone see the reflection safely. For the 3 km ground trail around all five lakes, you must attend a 10-15 minute lecture at the Shiretoko Goko Field House, and from May 10 to July 31 (brown bear active season) you can only enter with a certified guide who claps hands and shouts to announce human presence, because ‘what humans can do is not meet bears’. In winter the park is closed but guided eco tours let you walk on the frozen lake and see snow-capped Rausu. Trails show bear claw marks on trees and the feeding holes of the black woodpecker Kumagera. No candies or juice allowed because bears’ noses detect sugar. Bus 25 min from Utoro Onsen terminal or 14 km drive. The site shifts clearly across seasons. Late May to June brings fresh green and soft light, summer offers cool highland wind, autumn burns with broadleaf color, winter sharpens the landform with snow. Choose a 1h stroll or half-day traverse; morning front-light is best for photos, but backlight sunset also works for silhouettes. Access is by JR plus local bus and a short walk; parking is limited so arrive early or use public transport. Local foods—miso-based dishes, mountain vegetables, lake fish, lamb—pair well with a nearby onsen or roadside station stop. Etiquette matters: don't step on moss or move driftwood, keep tripods compact, keep distance from nesting birds, carry out trash. With that context the landscape reads not as just pretty nature but as geology and living culture intertwined.