An Illustrated Japan / Kagawa / Townscape & Scenery
Naoshima, officially Naoshima Town in Kagawa County within Kagawa Prefecture, is an eight square kilometer island with about 3,000 residents in the Seto Inland Sea that transformed from copper smelting and fishing community into global contemporary art destination through Yayoi Kusama's Red Pumpkin and Tadao Ando concrete architecture harmonized with nature. The transformation began with vision of Fukutake Soichiro, founder of Fukutake Publishing, and architect Tadao Ando who launched Benesse Art Site Naoshima in late 1980s with concept of coexistence of nature, art, and humanity. Sites opened sequentially: Benesse House Museum hotel in 1992 combining lodging and gallery, Chichu Art Museum partly underground in 2004 housing Monet Water Lilies, Walter De Maria and James Turrell installations lit only by natural light, Lee Ufan Museum in 2010 minimal sculpture confronting sea, and Ando Museum in converted traditional house with wooden interior. At Miyanoura Port 2006 Kusama Yayoi Red Pumpkin large polka-dot sculpture about four meters high welcomes ferry passengers and is walkable inside with open dots creating light play. In Honmura village Art House Project converts abandoned houses, shrines, and dentist clinic into site-specific installations by Hiroshi Sugimoto, James Turrell, and Shinro Otake. As core venue of Setouchi Triennale international art festival, car traffic is restricted, electric bicycles and walking encouraged, and local fishermen still mend nets beside art installations, model studied worldwide for sustainable art-driven revitalization respecting island rhythms. Art appreciation passport for Benesse Art Site is purchasable at ferry terminal information desk, but Chichu Art Museum requires advance online reservation as walk-in tickets are almost impossible. Electric assist bicycles are recommended to cover island efficiently given steep slopes between ports. Staying overnight at Benesse House allows exclusive after-hours viewing of museums with no crowds, and open-air bath surrounded by sea wind and pine forest offering Seto Inland Sea sunset luxury. Evening at port, yellow pumpkin glows as beacon for returning fishing boats. Island shuttle bus alternative runs limited hours for non-cyclists. Blue long-established fishing tackle shop beside red pumpkin sells island-limited olive curry. Art appreciation passport for Benesse Art Site is purchasable at ferry terminal information desk, but Chichu Art Museum requires advance online reservation as walk-in tickets are almost impossible. Electric assist bicycles are recommended to cover island efficiently given steep slopes between ports. Staying overnight at Benesse House allows exclusive after-hours viewing of museums with no crowds, and open-air bath surrounded by sea wind and pine forest offering Seto Inland Sea sunset luxury. Evening at port, yellow pumpkin glows as beacon for returning fishing boats. Island shuttle bus alternative runs limited hours for non-cyclists. Blue long-established fishing tackle shop beside red pumpkin sells island-limited olive curry. Art appreciation passport for Benesse Art Site is purchasable at ferry terminal information desk, but Chichu Art Museum requires advance online reservation as walk-in tickets are almost impossible. Electric assist bicycles are recommended to cover island efficiently given steep slopes between ports. Staying overnight at Benesse House allows exclusive after-hours viewing of museums with no crowds, and open-air bath surrounded by sea wind and pine forest offering Seto Inland Sea sunset luxury. Evening at port, yellow pumpkin glows as beacon for returning fishing boats. Island shuttle bus alternative runs limited hours for non-cyclists. Blue long-established fishing tackle shop beside red pumpkin sells island-limited olive curry.