An Illustrated Japan / Kagawa / Townscape & Scenery
Teshima is a small island in the eastern Seto Inland Sea, about 3.7 km west of Shodoshima, 14.5 square km with about 800 residents, belonging to Tonosho Town, Kagawa. Water from Mt. Dandan in the center fed terraced rice fields, supporting rice, strawberries, lemons and dairy – once called the Milk Island and later the Welfare Island for pioneering care facilities. Its recent history was marked by the massive illegal industrial waste dumping that began in the 1970s, one of Japan's largest pollution cases, followed by decades of remediation and ecological restoration. The cultural turnaround came in October 2010 with the Teshima Art Museum in Karato, built on reclaimed fallow terraces together with residents. Architect Ryue Nishizawa created a 40 by 60 meter, 4.5 meter high concrete shell shaped like a water droplet, with no columns. Two ceiling openings let wind, light and bird song enter directly. Inside, Rei Naito's installation Matrix lets spring water well up from the floor and slowly gather into a spring over the day; visitors sit on the floor and watch droplets travel. The white shell itself is the work, embodying the idea of a mother form that accepts wind, light and time as they are. Together with Naoshima and Inujima it forms the Benesse Art Site Naoshima and a main venue of the Setouchi Triennale. Access only by ferry via Uno or Takamatsu to Ieura Port then Toto bus 15 min to Bijutsukan-mae, or Karato Port walk 15 min, e-bike 30 min. Beyond the museum, rent a cycle to ride stone-walled rice terraces, House projects, and island lemon sweets. Photography inside prohibited, shoot exterior from west side in morning to avoid backlight. Etiquette: no entry to paddies, take trash back, quiet on village lanes.